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Embroidered Book Cover

for 16th-Century Book of Music

This cover was inspired by the velvet books popular with the Tudor royalty. The images of the four embroidered flowers on the cover were taken from the first page of the music book of Mary Tudor, Queen of France, and the couching pattern is a combination of a few exemplars seen below. The flowers were embroidered in silk on linen, and then transferred as appliqué to the silk velvet used for the cover. The background design was couched using gold-colored thread, and then freshwater pearls were used to embellish the decoration. Silk was used to make the tie for the book.

About the Book and Cover

This is the cover of a book of music in the style of early 16th century.  The contents of the book can be seen here, and the process of making which can be seen here.

To read about the entire process in detail, you can read the documentation here.
This book was a huge learning process for me, and one of the most important things that I learned is to know my materials better! It was my first attempt at silk painting, and my first attempt at couching on velvet, as well as my first time making a book. I could have spent months and months on just the flowers, but the deadline demanded that I allow my efforts to be what they were. Most frustrating to me was that w hen completed on the frame, the couching on this cover was nice and straight and tight (see below), but the canvas with which the velvet was backed - despite washing in hot water and drying on high - shrank when the glue bonding it to the book was drying. Nevertheless, I am pleased overall with this first effort at a project like this, and am excited to delve back in to embroidery and bookmaking at some point.

This book project was made with much help from my husband, Lord Dunstan Stonehill. For the book, he built several tools such as a Moxon vise that I used as a press, and the frame for me to sew the pages. He also built the slate frame so that I could embroider the entire cover at once. 

Exemplars and Process

Book Cover design inspiration_edited.jpg

Book of Hours, 1500 

Walters  Museum

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The Lord’s Prayer, 1583

British Library

Book Cover inspiration 2.jpeg

Bible, 1543

Library of Henry VIII, British Library

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Exemplar for flowers

folio 5v, MS 1760, 1515; DIAMM

Book Cover design in progress .jpeg

Sketch of cover design

There are several difference between the plan and the finished product :D

rose facing away exemplar MS 1790 closeup_edited.jpg

Rose exemplar 1, detail

folio 5v, MS 1760, 1515; DIAMM

rose facing away take 1_edited.jpg

Rose 1 on linen, attempt 1

...I was not at all satisfied with the results...

rose facing away on linen 2_edited.jpg

Rose 1 on linen, attempt 2

I would still have liked to re-do this...but as it had already taken 20 hours for just this rose, I decided to let it be...

Lilly for book cover exemplar MS 1790_edited.jpg

Lily 1 exemplar, detail

folio 5v, MS 1760, 1515; DIAMM

open lily on linen_edited.jpg

Lily 1 embroidered on linen

There were things about this that I liked better....

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Rose 2 exemplar, detail

folio 5v, MS 1760, 1515; DIAMM

open rose on linen_edited.jpg

Rose 2 embroidered on linen

I could not discover how to make the texture of the painting with the silk..but it was very fun to try!

IMG_6254_edited_edited.jpg

Lily 2 exemplar, detail

folio 5v, MS 1760, 1515; DIAMM

blooming lily on linen 2_edited.jpg

Lily 2 embroidered on linen

In future embroidery, I would love to add the insects

four flowers on linen_edited.jpg

Four Flowers on linen

The finished flowers prior to transferring them to the velvet

Book Cover finished closeup.jpeg

Flowers appliquéd to velvet

I was not sure how to prevent the loss of edge detail...

setting up for embroidery frame 4.jpeg

Slate Frame and Canvas

The slate frame made for me by my husband, with the piece of canvas that would back the velvet cover

setting up for embroidery frame 5.jpeg

Velvet in slate frame

I sewed the canvas to the frame, and then sewed the velvet to the canvas

setting up for embroidery frame 6.jpeg

Outline of couching design

Drawn in chalk, before I realized that I would just rub this off when I appliquéd the flowers to it

applique four flowers 4.jpeg

Flowers appliquéd on velvet

...the ghost of my chalk outlines can be seen...

 

Book Cover back and front in progress.jpeg

Couching almost finished

...before being glued to the book, the lines were relatively straight...

Book Cover Cleosup Open Lilly 2.JPG

Appliquéd lily, detail

This shows the couched edges of the flowers

Book Cover open lily in progress 2_edited.jpg

Lily 1 in progress

Silk on linen layer 1

open rose in progress_edited.jpg

Rose 2 in progress

I was attempting to give some dimension... 

Rose Facing Away in progress_edited.jpg

Rose 1 attempt 1 in progress

This was much less shaded and padded than I wanted...

blooming lily on linen 1_edited.jpg

Lily 2 outline

The silk was lighter, but also picked up the graphite from my pencil sketch

Book Cover Silk skeins_edited.jpg

The silk thread as it arrived

...I kind of didn't want to do anything with them, they were so beautiful as is!

red green white silks on spools.jpeg

Silk threads on spools

Another painstaking job that my husband helped with...

Book Cover 1_edited.jpg

Finished cover, front

Showing the silk tie

Book Spine 1_edited.jpg

Finished cover, spine

The horizontal lines on the spine correspond with the bands in the binding

Book Cover 2.JPG

Finished book, front

...showing the ties untied

C at AnS Pennsic XLIX_edited.jpg

Finished book, page 1

at Pennsic XLIX

©2021 by Cynthia Sutton

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